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Hot Tea
By Heather Shrouse
Like most Americans,
my history with tea started as a child, impatiently awaiting
my Grandma’s sun tea to steep as I danced around the scorching
back porch. And when it did, I told her about it loudly,
watched as she heavily sugared it before pouring it over ice,
and took a big gulp which always resulted in an “eeww.” I
retreated to my standard Kool-Aid.
As a country, our
history with tea is a troubled one. We are deemed by the
tea-drinking world as lagging; we relegate afternoon tea to a
debutante practice and our hectic schedules have put us in
“instant” mode (we were the country who invented both the tea
bag and instant tea).
But in our defense, we became
this way because of principle. When our masked ancestors took
to dumping 342 chests of tea into the Boston Harbor in 1773,
it wasn’t that they didn’t like the tea, but that they didn’t
like the tax. And since the infamous boycott, we’ve been
slowly working our way back into the tea
world.
According to the Tea Council of the U.S., sales
of tea have doubled in the last decade. While half of
Americans still stick to coffee as their daily drink, about
30% are choosing tea—a number steadily increasing as coffee
consumption decreases. True, a majority is drawn to
ready-to-drink cold teas that appeal to the soda pop palate.
But similar to our growing affinity for artisan cheeses,
single-estate wines and gourmet foodstuffs, Americans are now
searching out high-quality teas.
Specialty tea
merchants are seeing a boom in interest; tea houses are
popping up in urban areas once loyal to smoky coffeehouses;
and, of course, the marketing gurus are right on the cusp of
the trend, ready to replicate the Starbucks success with
tea-to-go chain concepts.
Tea Trends
One man
considered the tea trend tracker of the industry is Brian
Keating, of the Seattle-based marketing firm Sage Group
International. Since 1995, his annual Tea is Hot Report has
served as the insider tea business resource directory, with
market forecasts and a how-to manual of sorts that explains
everything from terms and quality grades to sources and
historical data.
Among the trends sighted in the 2003
Report, Keating predicts that green tea will outsell black tea
by 2008, and claims that chai, yerba mate, rooibos and bubble
tea are “hot.” Those buzzwords may not be household names yet,
but across the Midwest it looks like they’re certainly
catching on.
Bubble tea originated in Taiwan in the
early ‘80s, where it is known as boba nai cha, but it emerged
in the Midwest at Chicago’s Joy Yee’s Noodles in 1997. “We
discovered it in Hong Kong, where it was very popular with the
younger generation, which is our core business,” says co-owner
James Tai, whose partner is Jennifer Au. “Now, it’s extremely
successful, to the point that places around the city are
adding it to their menus, but initially people didn’t really
know what it was.” What it is essentially is brewed green or
black tea that is chilled, to which milk, ice cubes and simple
syrup are added. The “bubble” comes from the tapioca pearls
that are added last, sucked through fat straws as a chewy
treat throughout the drink.
In addition to the
traditional bubble teas, Joy Yee’s also introduced bubble
smoothies, derived from the simple blending of fresh fruits
with ice that was common in Au’s native Vietnam. The wall of
their Chinatown restaurant is lined with fresh mangos,
pineapples, papayas, watermelons and bananas, but the express
“bubble tea line” that runs out the door most days is evenly
split between the fruit creations and the milky bubble
teas.
Bubble tea is merely one of the many trendy teas
featured at Argo Tea in Chicago, a tea-to-go concept developed
by Daniel Lindwasser, Simon Simonian and Arsen Avakian (each
with backgrounds in technology and management consulting).
Argo is one of the first cafes in the Midwest to feature tea
predominantly and to offer signature drinks that appeal to the
“mocha-frappa-caramel-boost” demographic responsible for
turning Starbucks into a multi-million dollar company.
“We’re not trying to target tea connoisseurs, but
we’re trying to introduce tea to the masses,” says Lindwasser.
“Our goal is to develop a chain that bypasses traditional long
brew times and straight teas.” What they’ve implemented at
Argo is a menu that features about a dozen teas, from
traditional assam black tea to ginger peach tisane to
“teappucino,” that are brewed as a concentrated liquid by
using a stronger tea-to-water ratio in clear, very mod looking
Mono Filio teapots.
The colorful pots line the counter
and, upon ordering, hot water is added to a shot of the tea
for a fresh, warm cup, or the liquid is used in one of the
signature teas, their bestsellers. “Tea sparkle” (tea with
soda water and flavored syrup), “tea squeeze” (half hibiscus
tisane and half lemonade), and “mocha tea” (tea with steamed
milk and chocolate) are among the favorites.
The Tea
Trade
Aside from restaurants and cafes implementing
trends, it seems that tea merchants are seeing some of
Keating’s claims come true, as well. Self-taught tea guru Bill
Todd launched Todd & Holland Tea Merchants in River
Forest, Illinois, in 1994 with little more than a website and
mailing list. After the demand for their high-quality,
full-leaf teas grew, a shop was set up in ‘97.
“I grew
up drinking Southern sweet tea until one day someone gave me a
cup of wonderful loose-leaf green tea, and I woke up to
realize there was a whole world of teas out there,” says Todd.
“I sat down and read all 2000 pages of the 1935 book All About
Tea by William Ukers, sought out knowledgeable people in the
industry and asked questions until I just about wore out my
welcome.”
Todd has since traveled to what he calls
“the big three” (China, India and Sri Lanka), constantly
searching for new suppliers to add to his stock of over 150
varieties which range from $20 to $220 a quarter pound.
“Estate owners travel to you sometimes, offering their teas,
or they’ll send samples, but they have this idea that
Americans don’t want the highest of quality,” Todd says.
“Sometimes you have to go there in person to show that you’re
serious about wanting the best teas. I once tasted 50 cups of
gunpowder, repeatedly asking for better until they pulled out
the secret stash that never sees export.”
His travels
have paid off, as his growing clientele now ranges from tea
connoisseurs to novices hooked in by their first exquisite
cup, as Todd was a decade ago.
Sales seem to confirm
the trend, as green tea and rooibos are increasingly popular
with Todd & Holland customers. Roobios is a tisane from a
bush native to South Africa, where it is called “red bush” for
its color after drying in the hot African sun, and is heralded
for its health benefits. Aside from having five times the
antioxidents found in tea, it is said to help everything from
cramps and headaches to insomnia and irritated skin.
Rooibos is slightly sweet and low in tannins, and at
Todd & Holland, is blended with fruit oils and flowers to
create signature combinations. The most popular are the Ruby
Tuesday (rooibos with raspberry, strawberry and cherry) and
African Jewel (rooibos with rose, marigold and
linden).
In addition to his own retail business, Todd
sells his teas to other retail and cafe operations. Aion
teahouse in Chicago’s Wicker Park neighborhood offers Todd
& Holland teas as part of their 100-variety selection.
Owner John Wallace opened his throwback to daintier times just
a year ago, combining his love for antiques and tea in a
charming bi-level space perfect for reviving high tea. His
clientele is slightly more women than men, typically in their
thirties, who love the surroundings of Roman glass, Tibetan
artifacts and 1700-era engravings (all for sale), as well as
the traditional British high tea service of crumpets, scones,
jams, and, of course, tea.
“I think it just made sense
to have a teahouse as a cool environment to enjoy antiques
in,” says Wallace. “It seemed to be great timing because I’ve
really seen an increase in the public’s interest in teas.
They’re asking about specialty teas, and traveling from pretty
far away to visit.”
His top three sellers read like a
Tea is Hot Report confirmation letter. Rooibos is a hot item,
particularly the Green Rooibos, a blend of orange, strawberry,
peach, sunflower and cornflower blossoms. Green tea is the
best selling of the full-leaf teas, with the rose-petal and
sunflower blossom-accented Japanese Sencha topping the list.
And the Chocolate Chai is also quite popular; a blend of the
traditional Indian black chai tea with extra cinnamon,
cardamom, clove and cocoa.
About as far from high tea
as you can get is a Navy man of 21 years. Mitch Jancek opened
Sailor’s Teas in Arlington Heights, Illinois, a little more
than three years ago “to support my tea habit.” After spending
his Navy career sipping his way through Asia’s best teas, he
returned to the States to find his daily addiction was rather
hard to come by.
For three years, he sold teas he
procured on travels out of his basement before demand outgrew
the space, and he moved his operation into the present
storefront. “When I first opened my friends all said ‘Aw,
you’re gonna have a bunch of blue-haired old ladies in
there,’” Jancek says. “But the days of teas associated with
Grandma are over. I’m seeing a big-time increase in interest
with everybody coming in here from high school kids to auto
mechanics, all willing to experiment and try new things.”
The everyman of tea sells about a hundred varieties
retail that he acquires through an established half-dozen
sources throughout India, China and Taiwan. Jancek has sold a
phenomenal amount of green teas lately, from entry-level
quality that runs about $7 a quarter-pound to a phenomenal
Chung Lo jasmine that goes for $32 a quarter-pound. In black
teas, the malty assam and the creamy Yunnan are both popular.
When it comes to brewing paraphernalia, he refuses to sell the
mesh tea balls because he says, “The leaf has no room to
expand, they’re hard to clean and basically they’re junk.”
What he does sell a lot of are the German Teeli infusers and
traditional Japanese iron teapots.
Another man brought
to the tea business by his immersion in Asian culture is Dan
Robertson, owner of The Tea House in Naperville, Illinois. A
Tai Chi teacher for 20 years, he traveled to China in ‘94 to
produce a documentary on Chinese culture, with the intent to
highlight tea’s social and historical relevance. The next year
he returned to Naperville to open The Tea House.
In
addition to offering 200 teas retail, Robertson creates custom
blends for cafes and restaurants like Suzette’s Creperie and
Russian Tea Time. His signature black tea blends continue to
be his most popular sellers, including the Berry Cordial with
elderberries and boysenberries and the Mango Chai, a
traditional masala chai with mango added.
Though the
more punchy, fruity teas continue to top his sales, Robertson
hasn’t given up on educating American palates on the
subtleties of China’s prized green teas. Each year he leads
The China Tea Tour, taking a group of locals on a 14-day
exploration through mist-covered tea-producing mountains, tea
factories, tastings with area experts and remote tea gardens
where guests can pick their own teas. “We’ve got a long way to
go in the U.S., where we’re sort of the bottom of the tea
culture,” he says. “But more people are asking questions and
seem genuinely interested, and that’s really all it takes to
change things.”
Visiting the source can give an
entirely new perspective on teas, turning tea drinkers into
passionate industry leaders. Such was the case for Rishi Tea,
a Milwaukee-based start-to-finish tea company founded by
Joshua Kaiser, Aaron Kapp and Benjamin Harrison. Rishi is one
of the very few companies in the U.S. to handle sourcing,
processing, importing, consulting, and selling their 100-plus
teas to thousands of retail clients throughout the country
(and to the public via their website).
Kaiser’s
constant travel to China before and while founding Rishi in
‘97 was to develop farm partnerships, working with abandoned
tea gardens in areas known for high-quality teas. “We work
with a like-minded Chinese company focused on expanding
organic agriculture practices,” he says. “We develop the
quality standards, recruit tea artisans skilled in production
method of the specific tea, and then get third party organic
inspections and certification for the project.”
One of
Rishi’s goals is to save the tea regions that were once
heralded for high-quality teas from overuse of fertilizers,
while invigorating the small villages’ economies. Organic
teas, in the past, have not been respected as great quality
and Kaiser is working on changing that. “There have been very
few classic teas from China that have been produced without
pesticides,” he says. “The result is that a real toll has been
taken on the classic tea-producing regions. We have to
conserve artisanal tea culture so that the techniques of the
Old World can continue to please our palates.”
Tea
Tradition
Never disrupted by trend, Old World tea
culture might be best viewed through Chanoyu, the Japanese
“Way of Tea” that is a studied practice of drinking powdered
green tea, or matcha. Chanoyu began with Japanese monks
returning from study at Zen monasteries of 12th century China,
who used green tea as an aid to meditation and for its
medicinal properties.
Throughout Japanese history, the
many styles of tea drinking ceremonies and their philosophies
blended to become identified as the Way of Tea, with four
basic principles of harmony, respect, purity and tranquility.
Chicagoan Joyce Kubose grew up in a Japanese household
with an eight-mat tearoom for a living room, learning Chanoyu
from her mother, Minnie. Throughout the last 30 years, the
Kubose women have given presentations on the lifetime practice
at the Buddhist Temple, the Chicago Botanic Garden and various
schools and organizations.
Joyce founded the Chanoyu
Center of Chicago in 2001, offering various levels of study,
from a nine-class series introducing the student to the
utensils and the tearoom, to advanced curriculum study
registered through the Urasenke Headquarters in
Japan.
“In the last three years, interest in matcha has
increased dramatically, and not just for people studying
Chanoyu,” says Joyce. “But after a presentation, you would be
surprised how many people approach me and say they didn’t
realize what spirituality was there. A life of spirituality
from a little cup of tea.”
Joy Yee’s Noodles, 521
Davis St., Evanston, IL; 847.733.1900; 2159 S. China Pl.,
Chicago, IL; 312.328.0001; http://www.joyyee.com/
Argo
Tea, 958 W. Armitage Ave., Chicago; 312.873.4123; http://www.argotea.com>www.argotea.com</a></i><br><i>Todd%20&%20Holland%20Tea%20Merchants,%207577%20Lake%20St.,%20River%20Forest,%20IL;%20800.747.8327;%20<a%20href=
Aion,
2135 W. Division St., Chicago; 773.489.1534
Sailor’s Teas,
208 N. Dunton Ave., Arlington Heights, IL; 847.483.0506; http://www.sailorsteas.com/The
Tea House, 630.961.0877; http://www.theteahouse.com/
Rishi Tea; http://www.rishi-tea.com/
Chanoyu
Center of Chicago, for more info, contact Shauna,
773.283.4270; http://www.chanoyuchicago.org/
Hot
Tea Side Bars
Tea Terms
Green Tea:
One of the three principal types of tea, green tea is made
from leaves that are steamed and dried but not fermented,
resulting in a very subtle flavor and high concentration of
antioxidents. Produced primarily in Asia, common varieties
include sencha, jasmine pearl, gunpowder and matcha, the
ground green tea used in tea ceremonies such as the Japanese
Chanoyu.
Black Tea: One of the three principal
types of tea, black teas (called red teas in China) are
allowed to dry after being picked, then shaped or rubbed to
achieve full oxidation, and finally pan-fired to stop the
oxidation. They contain the highest caffeine level of full
leaf teas and are typically the most robust. Common varieties
include assam, English breakfast, darjeeling and
ceylon.
Oolong Tea: One of the three principal
types of tea, oolongs are partially fermented, with a process
and flavor that falls between green and black. Oolong is the
least produced and consumed type of tea and is most known in
its Taiwanese variety of formosa.
Tisane: This
term applies to “teas” that do not in fact come from the
Camellia Sinensis plant and are therefore not actually teas,
but a caffeine-free drink made from steeping herbs or flowers
in hot water. Common tisanes are chamomile, lavender, mint and
rooibos.
White Tea: The least processed of teas,
white tea comes from a specific tea bush that produces leaves
covered with a silvery-white fuzz. They are simply picked,
air-dried and packaged, without steaming or shaping involved.
This results in a very mild and savory flavor, low caffeine
level and very high concentration of antioxidents. Common
varieties include silver needle, snow buds and white
peony.
Yellow Tea: A very rare type of tea and
made exclusively in China, yellow teas are made from green tea
bushes but with a variance in processing. After drying, the
leaves are pan-fired and piled while still somewhat moist to
produce a chemical reaction that acts as a unique
fermentation. The result is a savory flavor and condensed
aroma.
Tasting Teas
There’s nothing
wrong with enjoying a pot of tea with friends, similar to
sharing a bottle of wine. But Bill Todd, owner of Todd &
Holland Tea Merchants, says that if you want to get serious
about teas and really teach your palate a thing or two, set
aside some time by yourself to do “cuppings.” “This is work
and it requires concentration,” he says. “But you will build a
tea database that will lead you to becoming your own guide
through the wonderful world of tea.” Todd’s cupping steps
follow:
- Brew a little more than one gram of tea for six ounces
of water, using boiling water for black tea and slightly
cooled water (about 180°) for oolongs, greens, whites and
yellows.
- Remove the tea leaves and note the clarity, shade and
depth.
- Sample the ‘nose’ or aroma, trying to identify any
recognizable scents of floral, spice, smoke or other.
Because what is commonly called sense of taste
is in fact sense of smell, hold your nose during the next
actual tasting steps. By doing this, your taste buds will
experience the four primary tastes of sweetness, saltiness,
acidity and bitterness. There are two ways to taste, the first
more acceptable in public and the second used primarily by
professionals in the tea business. The former involves taking
extra air into your lungs and while keeping your nose closed,
taking a sip of the tea and keeping it in your mouth to feel
the astringency and tactile feel. With mouth and nose still
closed, swallow the tea and then slowly exhale through your
nose, paying attention to the aroma. The second method
involves closing your nose, taking a teaspoon full of tea,
raising it to your lips and slurping it as fast and hard as
you can. Close your mouth immediately, then exhale through
your nose, concentrating on the aroma, and, finally, swallow
the tea.
RECIPES
Mahamorrah (Walnut/Pomegranate
Dip)Ingredients
2 cloves garlic
1
1/2 cups walnuts (preferably toasted)
1 jar roasted red
peppers (10-16 oz.), drained
3 tablespoons pomegranate
molasses
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon
cumin
1/4 cup olive oil (approximately)
Put garlic
in a food processor; pulse to chop. Add walnuts; pulse to
roughly chop. Add red peppers, pomegranate molasses, salt,
pepper and cumin. Pulse to form a coarse puree, adding enough
olive oil to smooth out dip. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve
with toasted pita bread.
Mambo Grill Island
RubIngredients:
2 teaspoons
salt
1/2 teaspoon course ground black pepper
1 teaspoon
ground cumin
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon chili
powder
1/2 teaspoon chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon
sugar
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
Stir together all of
the above ingredients and rub or sprinkle on chicken, beef,
pork or seafood.
Mambo Grill Island Chicken SaladYield: 6 to 8
servings (main course)
Glazed Chicken
Breast:
Rub 2¼-2½ lb. chicken breasts, boned with skin,
with Mambo Grill Island Rub
1 cup packed dark brown
sugar
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon
Gosling Black Seal Rum
Preheat oven to 350°. Combine
glaze ingredients. Preheat the grill to high. Coat chicken
with spice rub and place on grill. Grill chicken until browned
on all sides (do not cook it until done; you will finish it in
the oven). Remove and place in ovenproof dish. Rub glaze on
the top of each breast. Roast in center of oven for 10 minutes
or until done. Cut chicken into ½”-thick
slices.
Salad:
6 cups baby spinach, trimmed
4 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage (from one medium
head)
1 red bell pepper, cut lengthwise into thin
strips
1/2 cup golden raisins
Toss ingredients in a
large bowl with 1/4 cup vinaigrette, below.
Vinaigrette:2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1
tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon Cruzan orange
rum
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon curry
powder
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon
honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2
cup olive oil
Whisk together juices, rum, mustard,
curry powder, salt, pepper, sugar and honey then add oil in a
stream, until emulsified.
Garnish:
3 navel
oranges, peeled, including white pith, sliced crosswise
2
firm ripe California avocados, peeled, seeded and
sliced
To serve: Line a large platter with dressed
salad and arrange sliced chicken breast, oranges, and avocados
in rows on top. Drizzle vinaigrette over avocados and oranges.
Pour juices from skillet over chicken.
Shaw’s Oyster BiscuitsYield: 24 2½”
biscuitsIngredients:
4 cups all purpose
flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2
tablespoons + 1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup grated
Jarlsberg cheese
3 cups heavy whipping cream
24 small
shucked oysters
1/2 cup chopped steamed spinach
1
teaspoon fennel seeds
Sift together dry ingredients.
Add 1/2 cup of Jarlsberg. Add whipping cream until just
combined. Let dough sit 15 minutes before rolling. Roll to
1/8” thickness. Cut 48 2 1/2” pieces with a cookie
cutter.
Place a dab of spinach and cheese on each
biscuit and top with an oyster. Seal with top layer of
biscuit, brush with cream and sprinkle with fennel seeds. Bake
at 375º for 15 minutes.
Belgian “Boonohs”Yield 12-14 dozen
cookies
Boonohs may be eaten “straight” or as ice
cream sandwiches. To make these treats, you’ll need an
electric Belgian cookie iron (since you probably don’t own an
heirloom one). They’re available from Palmer Manufacturing
(call 724-872-8200 and ask for Model #1110, which has the
smallest grids).
Ingredients:
1 cup butter,
softened
1 1/2 cups white sugar
1 cup light brown
sugar
8 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch
salt
6-7 cups flour
- Cream butter with a wooden spoon. Gradually add sugars,
creaming all the while. Beat in eggs, vanilla and salt. Stir
in flour until stiff dough forms (less flour makes crispier
cookies).
- Cover dough; chill overnight.
- Roll chilled dough between palms of hands into
marble-sized balls. Heat a fine-grid Belgian cookie iron.
Keep extra dough balls chilled while you bake cookies one or
two at a time in cookie iron until golden brown. The amount
of time depends on how hot the iron is and how cold and
dense the dough is.
- Cool on racks. Store airtight or freeze.
Grandma Mimi’s Ricotta Cookies
Yield
80–100 cookies
Ingredients:
4 1/2 cups
cake flour
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1
tablespoon baking soda
2 tablespoons vanilla
3 eggs
1
pound melted butter, cooled slightly
1 pound carton
ricotta, plus 3 tablespoons
Confectioners’ sugar
- Preheat oven to 325°. Mix all dry ingredients. Then add
remaining ingredients and combine thoroughly with mixer.
- Drop them in tablespoons. Refrigerate remaining dough
while cookies are baking. When baked, the cookies will be
about 2 1/2-3” in diameter. Depending on your oven
bake at 325-350° for 10-12 minutes. The bottom of the cookie
should be light brown and cookie should spring back when you
touch the top.
- Sprinkle with powdered sugar when cool.
Jody’s CookiesYield 60-72
cookies
Ingredients:
1 cup butter,
softened
1 cup oil
1 cup sugar
1 cup powdered
sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cream
of tartar
4 cups flour
- Preheat over to 350°. Combine dry ingredients. Set
aside.
- Cream butter and add oil. Add sugars and blend until
combined, smooth and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time,
scraping the bowl as needed. Add the dry ingredients, mix
until blended.
- Drop the cookies by tablespoonfuls on an ungreased
cookie sheet. Set about 2” apart on the pans. Bake for 15 to
18 minutes.
Chris Darmstetter’s White Cranberry-Walnut
RelishYield: About 2 cups
Ingredients:
2 cups white cranberries
1 cup
sugar
1 cup water
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 cup whole
toasted walnuts
1 cup black mission figs, stemmed and
sliced in half
1 white onion, diced small
1 to 2
tablespoons maple syrup
Pinch of salt and pepper
- In a medium pan combine the cranberries, water and
sugar. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook,
stirring frequently, until a thick paste forms, about 15
minutes. Set aside.
- In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the
onions and cook until caramelized. Add figs, walnuts,
cranberries and salt and pepper to taste. Continue cooking
until everything is hot and mixed well. Fold in the maple
syrup. Spread on a cookie sheet to cool.
Serve with roasted meats, like pork chops
accompanied by mashed potatoes. We found this also makes a
great sandwich spread.
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